Computer Printing on Fabric

I gave a demonstration today to the Contemporary Quilt Group on printing photos onto fabric. I did not actually do any printing - the printer I wanted to use had died and I didn't want to use the new one without at least a couple of prior prints. The demonstration was well received and I had several requests for notes so I am going to put them on this blog. I do not claim any extraordinary expertise in this area so please don't flame me if you don't get perfect results when you first try this fascinating technique.

1. PRINTER
* Inkjet, not laser
* Straight through printing path is preferable - fewer rollers and places for the print to be caught.
Apparently some newer printers use dye, not ink, and don't need pretreated fabric - I know nothing more than that.

2. IMAGE
* Acquire by scanning or download your own photos.
Be aware of copyright. Don't use images that are not copyright free.
* Adjust image in a photo-editing program (there is one sold with every digital camera). I use PhotoShop and adjust size, brightness/contrast and colour balance. You need a strong image for most purposes. You can also use filters to modify the picture to achieve various effects.
* If you cannot add text in your photo-editor, copy picture into a Word document and add text there.
* ALWAYS DO A TEST PRINT

3. MEDIA
a. T-shirt transfer.
First method developed. Final image is reversed, so if using text, mirror image on the computer. Some printers let you select 'Tshirt transfer' as a media option, which mirrors the image automatically.
ALWAYS do a test print on paper first.
Ironing: Follow packet instructions. Leaving sheet till cold increases amount of transfer, so fabric will feel plasticky. Never iron directly on top of a transfer.
COST: approx $3 sheet

b. Ready to Use Fabric sheets
Various weights and fibres from silk organza to homespun. Availability: some quilt shops, mail order from Punch with Judy, Australian Country Quilts, the Thread Studio.
COST: from Craft Show special ($29.95 for 10 sheets cotton) to Extravaganza (silk organza 5 sheets for $45)
Note: Since these sheets usually come from the US, they measure 9-1/2" by 11" - a bit wider and shorter than A4.

c. DIY - Prepare your own fabric
* Bubble Jet Set is essential to prevent ink running [example below of a print on silk that was not pretreated]
* Natural fibres only - silk, cotton, wool
* Directions on bottle are very clear. Follow them. Use gloves and a clean tray.


METHOD:
i. Cut fabrics slightly larger than A4 (I use a file envelope), place in tray and saturate in BJS. Leave 5 minutes, drain off BJS back into bottle. Leave to dry. In a hurry? Roll in a towel, use a hairdryer.

ii. Iron on to carrier sheet. (Freezer paper from quilt shops approx $1/metre - iron onto shiny side, heavy sheets -US letter size from Punch with Judy $17 for 50 sheets, Celcast sticky (really good for organza) $3 sheet - packet of 5). Make sure edges are secure, iron both sides.

iii. Rotary cut to A4. No whiskers allowed. Slightly smaller is OK. Do this immediately before printing.

4. PRINTING
Be prepared for failure. ALWAYS DO A TEST PRINT. Mostly use plain paper setting, but envelope setitng may work better.
Wrappers for photocopy paper (provided they have a shiny inside surface) can be used instead of freezer paper. I don't think they work as well - a bit too thick.
No whiskers - trim sheets immediately before printing. You may need to do this to purchased sheets too.

FAQs
* Shelf-life. BJS - 5 years+, Treated sheets - supposed to use immediately, I have used months later with no apparent difference in results.

* BJS rinse. I never use this. If there seems to be excess ink on fabric (after 24 hours) rinse in plain water or a solution of 1 drop dishwashing detergent to 1 cup water.

* Costs. DIY is much cheaper, but needs time and effort.

* I have read on the Internet that you can use fabric conditioner instead of BJS. I have never done this.


I hope this information is useful to someone.

[Sunday, 19th August. Annie (thank you) sent me a link to a blog with details of using fabric conditioner instead of BJS and I just got round to looking at it. Something else to try . . . ]